Chesca Deans

30th March 2025

The Sketch Behind the Silhouette

When working as a designer for an independent design studio, the liberty is getting to jump from brand to brand each week and quickly adapting into different handwritings and even departments. Being in-house, you are confined to one particular brand direction and are niched into a specific womens, mens or kidswear designer. You are further narrowed down in certain departments such as denim or woven blouses for example. My ill-focused and wandering mind takes great pleasure in having worked on projects like the Represent womenswear collection, Maserati mens Formula E uniforms, Zara girlswear denim, NEXT's Eid capsule collection etc... a vast variety of directions and aims in projects. 

 

One of the most critical focuses as an independent designer is the quality and quantity of technical CADs, aka sketches. This became one of my specialties and I often find myself in the constant muscle-memory action of sketching almost everyday. Silhouette is one of my most favoured technicalities as it's the foundation of a garment - it leads the choreography of motion between shape and fabric and it's the structural integrity that supports the wearer. For this reason, I have endless files of silhouette sketches and it's a feature that's at the forefront of what Kimesca is designed on.      

*An unreleased design from Kimesca’s development archive called the 'Lovevein' dress - this is not the 'True Kimesca' gown.

To me, I actually see my enjoyment and professional dependency to CAD quite ironic because I would always be very upfront in the fact that I "can't draw". Hand me a pencil and paper and you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between mine and a 3-years-old master piece. I see digital sketching a bit more mathematical almost, and less frivolous - something my style of thinking prefers as it helps keep a tunnel vision. Sometimes too much freedom in creativity prevents me from reaching any end goal and I just end up with fragments of designs. 

 

CADs are more than just nice little sketches - they’re essential tools for clear communication. They help bridge the gap between you and your manufacturers by visually conveying how you want your design to be constructed, from specific seams and trims to finishes and fabrics. In retail fashion, CADs also play a crucial role in cross-departmental collaboration, allowing teams like buying to understand the creative direction of a collection as well as being able to determine whether certain details or materials align better with the brand's consumer preferences and buying patterns. Additionally, CADs provide an opportunity to assess costs, enabling buying and design teams to work on adjustments by means of simplifying certain elements to reduce expenses or enhancing others to add value.

 

 

 

The benefit of having a background in commercial design is the ability to combine consumer behaviours, demand, and areas to develop and then translate this into functional, manufacturable, and wearable garments. Sometimes when we imbalance creativity against practicality, we develop abstract and unmarketable ideas that are beautiful in theory but disconnect from real-world purpose. The avant-garde industry is an impeccable and otherworldly area but when starting a fashion label it's important to understand your 'why' and develop clarity of purpose. 

 

For me, with Kimesca, I wanted to fuse the heritage of British design and craftsmanship with the cultural heritage intertwined in my married life to delivery high-fashion, modest dresses that are inspired by the modern modest woman. The modest industry is a vast and global one which means I need to be able to communicate with a wide and diverse audience. To fulfil Kimesca’s mission successfully, I have to design commercially viable pieces that still feel distinctive and elevated but are new enough to excite, yet grounded enough to resonate and sell. It's about offering something the market hasn't quite seen before, while ensuring it's something women genuinely want to wear. 

 

We can't wait to meet you and deliver the "True Kimesca" gown!

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